We arrive in Rome at night. After spending the previous day and night snowed in at the Dublin airport, we’re so tired it’s almost like our bodies have reset and we’re energetic again. Thrilled to arrive back at our hotel, we hastily check in with the clerk. He seems to speak more English than the […]
“It’s a feast every damned week. It’s maddening retail hours. It’s a city about to become half old-people’s home/half tourist museum. It’s like America before coffee was “to go,” when a playground was a patch of gravel, some cigarette butts, and an uninspected swing set; when everybody smoked; when businesses in your neighborhood were owned […]
Three years ago, the day before I was to move to Rome for three months, my then-boyfriend broke up with me for being too crazy. I spent the day sobbing hysterically to my parents, in the car, at my best friend’s birthday dinner (which will forever be known as “Remember that birthday party? Yeah, the one […]
either eat this soup or jump out of this window 